Thursday, June 28, 2012

Misty Wales

The wifi at our London hostel is terrible, so we haven't been blogging. Here are a few photos from last weekend's trip to North Wales. What a wonderful place! We loved hearing Welsh spoken, and the scenery? Spectacular!

We took a train ride up to the top of Mt. Snowdon, the second highest peak in the UK, then we walked to the summit in gale force winds. The rocks were wet and slippery, and I was truly terrified of being blown off the peak. Even in the heavy mist, though, it was lovely.






Here I am, crawling up to the summit. I only did it because Eric was up there with his hand out, helping me up, and because some middle-aged stranger behind me said, "I'll do it if you do." Peer pressure!


Here I am, relieved to be alive at the top. It was so freaking windy!


Here's Eric, looking like an International man of mystery.


The train goes up a a craggy pass at times, so they don't want you hanging out the windows:


And yet...


Later that day, we went to the town of Caernarfon and toured the castle there. So many castles in Wales! We must have seen five or more just driving around.


Later, we walked through a park to see this lovely view. And yes, that's the remains of another castle there.





Sheep are everywhere! We saw them trotting down the road in town, even. Here's Eric getting up close and personal with one of the locals.


Welsh! What an interesting language. It took me until the end of the trip there to even make a sorry attempt at pronouncing the name of the town we were staying in.


We had a nice weekend away, free of the students. And here's the best part: we drove a rental car! Eric drove, and I helped occasionally when I thought he was getting too close to a stone wall on the narrow, shoulderless roads. Truly, he did a great job. New thing for June? Check!

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Thursday, June 21, 2012

Exhaustion

Today was a day from hell. I woke up feeling like my brain had decided to remain asleep while my body went on as usual. This head-stuffed-with-cotton feeling is one I've had before: it comes after a long, long string of sleepless nights. I've slept here, but I've not been able to overcome my jet lag. I just never feel rested. I blame it on aging, but I know it's also related to the fact that study abroad is stressful. My class has gone well, but it's a brand new one for me, so every day, I'm reading and prepping and grading. On top of that, Eric and I have been especially proactive when it comes to student issues. We've had individual conferences to touch base with all of them, group meetings to reinforce our behavior guidelines, evening movies to create bonding, "salons" to get them talking and thinking outside of class--we've even gone down to the bistro in the basement on a few evenings to just socialize with them. It's fun, but it's work. Here are a few of us at our first Sunday night salon.






Today, I had a sick student in need of medical attention. First, I took her to Boots the Chemist in Grantham. Here in the Uk, as in other countries in Europe, the pharmacist is more than a pharmacist. They consult with patients and seem to even diagnose things. The chemist decided that my student needed to see a GP, so we made an appointment and took a taxi to the next town over to the Stackwell Surgery. The name freaked her out, but I explained that a surgery was just their name for a clinic, and she calmed down. They prescribed an antibiotic, and she'll be fine. In the meantime, another student decided he needed to see the doctor, so I made an appointment for him. When I got back, I was cornered by two students complaining about one thing or another. After that, I had two hours of student presentations to watch and grade. The whole time, I was getting more and more exhausted. Here I am now, at 12:40am, wishing I could unwind and fall asleep.

Alas, tomorrow, is Friday, and the start of a free weekend. I'm going to relax if it kills me! Despite all of this whining, I really am loving this trip. It's been easier then the last two trips I lead, and that has a lot to do with my partner and my experience. If I could just get some rest, this would be just about perfect.
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Tuesday, June 19, 2012

Morris Dancers

This weekend in Abingdon-on-Thames, I saw something I'd never seen before: Morris Dancing. This traditional English folk dance originated in small villages around Oxford, England and is performed mostly in the spring. That is all I know about it, except for what I saw with my own eyes. The dancers--all men in the group I saw--wore hats ringed with flowers, rows of bells on their pant legs, and green suspenders. The dancing reminded me of some cross between clogging and square dancing, and they waved white handkerchiefs while they danced.



There were some odd characters there, too. I don't have any idea what these guys have to do with the dancing.



And finally, for your viewing pleasure, here's my amateur video of Morris Dancing! Enjoy!

YouTube Video

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Sunday, June 17, 2012

Oxford

I'm finally back from my free weekend. I say finally because trains were delayed in London's Kings Cross Station, so I took an incredibly slow train from St. Pancras to Nottingham, and then waited almost an hour for the train to Grantham. Instead of getting in at 12:30, I wandered in at about 5pm. Right now, I'm stretched out on one of the leather couches in the manor's Van der Elst library, sipping some of the wine they stash in here for faculty, left over after weddings on the property. What a day.

I had a nice weekend with my college friend, Kristin. She'd bought tickets to a walking tour of Oxford for us, but our bus in from her house was delayed in traffic, so we missed it. We made due, though, taking our own unguided tour. Here are some highlights. The buildings below are all a part of Oxford University, by the way.


















I wanted to find some sign of T.S. Eliot, since he was an Oxford grad. Here you go:


Here's Kristin!


Just like in Cambridge, you can go punting here (if you don't what punting is, just look at the photo and you'll figure it out. It was a windy, chilly day, so I wouldn't have had the nerve to do it.



We wandered through Oxford's Balliol College, established in 1263!!! it claims to be the university's oldest college. Here are some shots of the grounds and buildings there.


















Here's the pub where we ended our day at Oxford.


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Friday, June 15, 2012

Great Day

It's Something New Day here in Harlaxton. Everyone in the group is off on some adventure for their free weekend. Some are going to London for the weekend. Others are heading north to Edinburgh. I'm catching a train in two hours, bound for Abingdon, Oxfordshire and my college friend, Kristin. I met Kristin at Gannon University sometime around 1979. We were both English majors, and we both worked on the student newspaper. I can remember taking several classes with Kristin, including one where we read the same Hemingway novel I'm teaching now. I've been having flashbacks to that class all month, hearing an old professor, Dr. Smith, circa 1980, whispering in my ear about some classic American novel or another. I'm looking forward to catching up with Kristin and reminiscing. It should be fun!
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Well, here it is several hours later. Since I wrote the paragraph above, I've taken a train from Grantham to London, had a hilarious Tube ride or two to Paddington station, and took one last train to Oxfordshire. The hilarity of the Tube ride had to do with the fact that I solicited random strangers to tell me how to get to Paddington from King's Cross. I'm such a trusting little traveller. It worked, so I guess it wasn't such a bad navigational method, right? Of course, I took such a circuitous Tube route, that I almost missed my connecting train. I ran (and I mean that literally) through Paddington, and by the time I was sitting pretty on the train, I was sweaty and red faced. Charming.

Kristin met me at the Didcot Parkway station, fed me dinner at her lovely house in Abingdon, and then walked me along the confluence of the river Ock and Thames to the local pub where we spent a couple of hours laughing about our memories of college. She's signed us up for a waking tour of Oxford tomorrow that I'm really excited about. I've wanted to see Oxford for ages, but I've never made it there. She also told me some very valuable information. I should NOT be tipping bartenders in pubs. What do you know?! All in all, this has been a great day in the UK.


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Thursday, June 14, 2012

Getting Out

I just returned from my very first venture into Grantham--this trip, that is. Grantham is the birthplace of Margaret Thatcher and the spot where Sir Isaac Newton began his education. If it has other claims to fame, I don't know about them. I do know that its a quick, ten minute cab ride from the manor. Eric and I have had an exhausting week, and neither of us have been any farther from the manor than the pub at the end of the drive, so tonight we had an evening out. Where did we go? To Asda, the British Wal-Mart, where I bought two Olympics key chains and a small roll of digestive biscuits, and he bought some kind of chocolate covered cookie, laundry soap, and a cable for something or other. Now that's a walk on the wild side, huh? We did stop at a pub afterwards called Nobody's Inn, where we had some laughs about some of student's antics. This is one of the things I love about study abroad--that "we're in it together" feeling. Here are some of the kids!












The students are mostly adjusting well. Many of them have bonded beautifully and really seem to make the most of their time here. Others are adjusting more slowly, but they'll catch up. We had conferences with all of them this week to make sure they were settling in okay, and tonight we watched Midnight in Paris as a group. Tomorrow, the group will spread out far and wide for their first free weekend. I'm heading to see my old college friend Kristin in Abingdon, Oxfordshire, and I'm really looking forward to it. It will be good to stop working for a few days!

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Tuesday, June 12, 2012

First Day

Greetings from Harlaxton Manor, Grantham, Lincolnshire, UK. We worried on Sunday afternoon after a relatively eventless trip. One student's bag was lost, but it arrived today. Tragedy averted. We had a long day yesterday: after we arrived, we had an orientation, dinner, then a manor tour. Classes started this morning, and mine went very well. My students participated like crazy, so what more can I ask for? Of course, all I only asked them to read three easy poems, so I guess it wasn't too rigorous for our first jet lagged day. Tonight, Eric and I walked down the mile-long drive to the pub across the street, then came back and walked around to make sure all was quiet on the home front. Surprisingly, it was remarkably quiet. About 30 minutes ago, though, we started to hear hoots and hollers. Eric went to investigate, and I'm hoping the report is a good one. In the meantime, here are some photos from my new home away from home.















My room:






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Sunday, June 10, 2012

Looking Forward

I'm feeling pretty darned calm this morning. This is a bit of a surprise, given that today, I leave Cincy with 23 over-the-top excited college students and my co-leader, bound for study abroad in the UK and France. I'll need to spend a lot of time focusing on them for the next three and a half weeks, but I thought I'd take a little time here today to mention the things I'm looking forward to on this trip:

1. Getting back to Harlaxton Manor: this is a big one. There is something really special about this place, and I have so many memories there. In 2005, my friend, John, and I co-led a WWI program there. In 2007, my friend, Lee, and I led a Holocaust and WWII program at Harlaxton. I can't wait to see the place again.



2. Seeing my students' faces when they get their first glimpse of [insert the name of anything European here!]. This is the best part of study abroad, in my opinion. I know I should see the classes as most important, but...

3. I have this image of myself with a handful of students, sitting in some cafe or some cozy Harlaxton corner, talking about big ideas, about life, about literature and art. I don't know that I can manufacture that, but I do wish for it.

4. My class! I had been dreading this class for a variety of reasons (my harsh feelings about Eliot and Pound chief among them). My preparations have made me pretty excited about the literature and the class, though.

5. Free weekends! I'm going to visit my old college friend, Kristin, while I'm in England. She's lived there for years, and she's just moved to a town near Oxford. She feels really connected to this literature I'm teaching, since I was first introduced to it during our days at Gannon University in Erie, PA.

Well, time to do my last minute packing. With luck, I'll post here often. If I don't, you can follow our trip on our official study abroad blog: http://ucbastudyabroad.com/
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Saturday, June 9, 2012

Let the Adventure Begin

I'm going to be blogging on my university study abroad website while I'm away. Here's the first entry. We'll see if I have the energy to keep two blogs!
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In less than 24 hours, UCBA’s Summer British Study Abroad 2012 program will begin. Our group of 23 students will join me and my co-leader, Eric Anderson, for three and a half weeks overseas, where we’ll study American expatriate literature and media and culture. We’ll spend time at fabulous Harlaxton Manor near Grantham, England, where students will take one or both or our classes. Next, we’ll travel to London for four nights, and then board the Eurostar for five nights in Paris. We have some spectacular things planned: we’ll tour Westminster Abbey, the BBC, the Imperial War Museum, the Musee d’Orsay, and Versailles. We’ll watch a taping of a BBC television show, wander past Buckingham Palace, picnic in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower, sip coffee in one of Ernest Hemingway’s favorite cafes, and people watch in two of Europe’s greatest cities. By the time we’re finished, I feel certain that our students will feel the bite of the pest that bit me over thirty years ago: the travel bug.

When I graduated from high school in 1976, my brother and his family were living in England. Tom had lived abroad off and on since he’d joined the army right after college, and I spent many childhood nights listening to my mom or dad read his letters–full of foreign place names–to the family, or watching slideshows of his travels in our darkened living room. Over the course of my childhood, he moved from Germany, to France, and finally, to England, and as my high school graduation neared, I decided that I would take him up on his invitation to visit. My parents gave me a matching set of harvest gold luggage for graduation, helped me pack, and drove me to Toronto where I boarded my very first plane, bound for London. I was incredibly nervous–flying, traveling alone, heading off to see my brother and his family who I hadn’t seen in years. It didn’t help when an hour into the flight, the pilot announced that we were having some mechanical difficulties that made it so we had to turn around. I spent a free night in a Toronto hotel, and the next day, I was London bound. I spent three weeks in England, France, and Belgium on that trip: I shopped at Herod’s with my sister-in-law, saw the White Cliffs of Dover, toured the palace and gardens of Versailles, and ate at a restaurant in Brussels where I ordered Peach Melba and felt astoundingly continental. I had the travel bug in a big way.

It took me until June of 1981 to pack my bags again–this time for a five-week study abroad program in San Lorenzo de El Escorial, Spain. Our group came from all over the U.S., and it included two or three high school students, about a dozen college students, and a couple of retirees who wanted to see a little of the world. We didn’t have a single pre-trip meeting to encourage bonding or prepare us for Spanish culture, but that trip was one of the best experiences of my life. I arrived with a Spanish vocabulary that consisted of a handful of words and only two full sentences, taught to me by friends back home: “What color is your bathing suit,” and “Where is the bathroom.” The Spanish class I took on that trip helped enormously. On one of the last days in Spain, our group went into Madrid to visit the Prado Museum, and in the gift shop afterwards, I was able to speak enough Spanish that the clerk actually thought I knew the language–well, until she found out I didn’t. Back in San Lorenzo, I spent evenings with my new friends, talking about politics, art, music, and literature every evening. We met a group of young Spaniards who worked at the place we were staying, and they invited us to fiestas, a bullfight, and on several hikes in the mountains. Study abroad changed my life.

About a year and a half ago, Eric Anderson and I started planning this Summer British Study Abroad trip. We spent hours and hours coming up with the overall program concept, we researched destinations, and planned our individual courses. We wrote a proposal and submitted it to the UCBA Study Abroad & Exchange Programs Committee in February 2011, and once it was approved, the planning started in earnest. Neither one of us can quite believe that the trip is upon us already. Our students are excited–and for good reason. Study abroad is a remarkable opportunity. It allows students to see the world, make friendships that could last a lifetime, and participate in experiential learning for college credit. Eric and I are excited, too. Leading a study abroad trip is a lot of work, but it’s also a privilege. It’s extraordinary to be the person who gets to take these students abroad–many of them for the first time. This will be my third stint as program leader, and every time I do it, it takes me back to my early travels. I imagine myself as that high school graduate or young college student who left her little Pennsylvania town and stepped into the heart of Europe. Travel and education have changed my life, and it will change the lives of our SBSA students, too. Let the adventure begin!


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Sunday, June 3, 2012

June is the Cruelest Month

I'm exhausted. Last night, I had a dream that I was herding study abroad students through Heathrow, and they were scattering like beads of mercury. Every time I'd think I had them all together, another one would disappear. Alas, I'm stressed with a giant pre-trip to-do list and a mere week to get things done, and it's making it's way into my dreams. I just need to take a deep breath and remind myself that it's all going to be okay. We've prepared the students as much as we possibly can: we've taught them how to use the London Tube and Paris Metro, we've helped them create a behavior code and problem solving strategies, we've had workshops on safety abroad, given them packing tips, helped them plan free travel weekends, and given them several ways to get to know each other. The only thing left to do is to take the darned trip!

My own preparations have been less vigorous. I've managed to create a class from the ground up, but I don't feel ready to teach it yet. It doesn't help that I'm teaching writers I don't love. I'm learning to appreciate them, though. Have I mentioned that my class is on Expatriate American Writers in London and Paris between the World Wars? Eliot, Pound, Stein, Hemingway, and Fitzgerald are my authors, and while I have loved Fitzgerald since high school, when I'd sit up in bed until three or four in the morning reading his stories, the others I've never bonded with in quite the same way. As I reread Hemingway and Eliot, I'm having major college flashbacks to Dr. Smith teaching The Sun Also Rises, talking wistfully about bullfighting and the taste of Anis del Toro. Or of Professor Babowitz teaching a class on British poetry, reading The Waste Land aloud and giving me chills. The smartypants students in the class actually seemed to understand the poem, while I was left wondering about the wisdom of writing poetry that required more notes than actual lines of poetry. Of course, that was before I bought The Waste Land app for my iPad. That's right--I paid good money for it, and it is an astounding thing. There's a film of a dramatic reading of the poem done by Irish actress, Fiona Shaw, and it's just fabulous. It occurs to me that if all of the dense and difficult texts in world literature had apps like this one, I'd be out of work.

I'm complaining here, but in the midst of my stress today, I had a moment when I realized, again, how wonderful my life is at times and how often I take it for granted. In the span of two short years, I will have been to China, Scotland, England (twice), France (twice), Wales (maybe...fingers crossed on that one), Denmark, Sweden, and Norway. Holy cow! Let the students bounce off each other like mercury balls! Let them stage a classroom revolt to protest the fact that I've forced them to read Pound and Eliot. I'm going to Europe where I can hang out at Harlaxton, sit in a big wing-backed chair gazing out at the green, green countryside, sip a cup of tea, and read poetry. Damn. That's worth a little airport agony.

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